And it was really a long journey. Some of the group had
terrific headaches; some vomiting and other just were worn out. The changing
climate and the jeep ride took maximum toll.
Yet, the in between,
the halts were great. Twice for food, we stopped. All the food was prepared
beforehand, and eaten wherever water was available. The landscape slowly
changed. Now you could see snow clad mountains on one side, and rolling sand
dunes on the other side. The land stretched out simply. Without a hill or
stream in some places, no vegetation at all, a barren landscape. But then, as a
miracle dark blue lakes suddenly showed up, and the sudden glimpse was so enthralling.
And Pekaso lake is the most beautifully situated of the whole lot. Like green
and blue pendants in a sandy landscape they were very beautiful, but stretching
out so far. The path meandered through hills and valleys, it cannot be said it
as paths, because wherever the way was travelable, these drivers took the jeep
that way, some times the road climbed so
high that jeeps were seen as little moving boxes. At times when the jeeps
stopped for lunch, the landscapes naked to our eyes, suddenly brought forth
nomadic Tibetans. They with their herds and dogs blend to the scenario so much
that at times, we have to squint and look to ascertain them. And whatever you
give them, be it a sliver of apple or chappathy or roti, it is welcomed by a
smile, so pathetic it wrings your heart, and still the pathetic hands and eyes
seek us out for a few yuans(the Chinese currency). the nomadic tribal too wear
their customary dress ghoo, wear all kinds of stone necklaces, but are so
shabby and pathetic, we almost feel guilty we have so much food with us. at
times the winds are so strong, that even wearing two sweaters, we are
shivering, whereas these poor nomads, with only shabby woolen clothes, they are
hardy, and stand there braving the cold with their herds and dog. There is a
resignation in their eyes, as though resigned to their fate which brings a lump
to my throat. It is hearsay, that like us mortals, the nation, rivers, and
mountains too have their own ups and downs. In the scriptures it is said that
all the rivers, mountains are semi Gods and some of them at least is doing
their penance in the form of being immovable mountains, and rivers. Maybe,
after their sins are done for, they will again recoup the splendor that was
theirs in the beginning. The Tibetan
Kingdome once was very famed for its warriors, its monasteries, its
spirituality and its beauty. Once, the land about manasarovar and adjacent
places were once dotted with monasteries, but in 1951, when china overpowered
Tibetans there was rampant plundering. The monasteries which had many rare
paintings, thankas they are called, and old manuscripts were burnt, and the
wealth in the form of gold, pearls, corals and rare stones like diamonds,
sapphire, jades etc were taken out of them. I had also read that these monasteries
provided stability and security to the villagers and provided them their
livelihood too. Now, the barren
landscapes stretch out, and ice clad mountains!! And at last we reach
destination.This is Saga. This time 2007 we had a good hotel to sleep, with
very good clean rooms, and as if to compensate for the last time, this time
there was plenty of water from 8pm
to 11pm. /also in the
morning too, water from 6am
to 8 am. All in all good
arrangements. We started in the early morning. It is about 270 kmt. to the next
camp. It is Paryang, and I remembered
the last time we were there. That time we camped outside. with blue tents that
accommodate 4 persons, and in the sherpas vocabulary, with Kings and Queens
tent(toilets) all come to life in a few minutes, and we settle down for rest.
After a cup of hot soup, some of us just stretch out while others gather in the
maidan. Although it is about 6pm,
it is still as though it is noon,
and for the chilly wind that blows strong, it is a pleasant evening. We have
camped some way off, and there first came 3 or 4 small boys, peeking into every
tent, just looking us over. I had some crayons and small notebooks with me ,
these I gave to the boys, and you should see their joy, they are wonderstruck
literally, then came 4 teenaged girls, all wanting bindy. I gave bindies too,
and after chocolate and biscuits too were passed around, these girls consented
to dance a dance of their folks. It was a nice dance, all dipping and swaying
to the song accompaniment by a guitar like thing one of their brothers was
strumming, and in the spirit of dancing some of our group too took part in it.
It was grand. Simply grant. The fading light, the chilly wind, the dancing
girls, the huge dogs lying just outside the circle as if to guard the dancers, all
some how brought a feeling of unreality to it. They danced around for some more
time, and then the sherpas gave them something to eat, and all melted away to
the night, leaving us with an unreal feeling.

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